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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.